I’ve had a great rest with Molly’s family, particularly Sawyer who is so happy about everything. It’s been useful to take the time to decide what’s been happening to me over the last week and what I want from this bicycle ride.
Some of the things I’ve learned about myself are:
I like being on my own and having independence but I don’t do well when I have too much alone time and become isolated. I’ve had tons of contact with my friends and family, actually probably more than I do on a regular basis, but there is isolation in doing something that it’s hard for others to imagine at the moment. You know, like I’m freezing and it’s 90 in Knoxville. Or it’s raining so much that there’s no open B&Bs because they are trying to avoid being flooded by the lake.
I love to travel and to tour on a bicycle but probably want more control over where I’m going than just following a trail because it has been created. The adventure cycling maps are fantastic. They take you off the beaten path and avoid major traffic areas. They’re as scenic as possible but because of this there are very few grocery stores, restaurants, etc. I notice that most cross country riders enjoy the idea of eating convenience store foods, lots of sugary treats, burgers, fries, all that fast food stuff but I end up not feeling well with that food and consequently avoid eating as much as I should because I can’t stomach another energy bar, freeze dried meal or diner food.
As an older person, I’m not as flexible about where I sleep. I actually enjoy camping but I’m probably more sensitive to sketchiness than I was as a younger person or when I’m with some of my male cycling friends. I’ve been to some lovely campgrounds and inns on this trip but I’ve had to work hard to avoid some less than lovely places.
I have trouble making sure I have rest if I’m concerned I need to ride while the weather is better when I know it’s forecast to rain for the next four days. Planning rest is going to be essential in the future and trying to stick to that plan.
All of this is explaining why I’ve decided to stop my cross country trip, go home and reconsider my plans. During the past week, I’ve dreaded getting started in the mornings. I’ve been happy riding but dreaded the drudgery and monotony of stopping and starting each day. It’s been impacting my mood and consequently impacting how I feel about the people and places I’m seeing.
So I’m thinking I will take at least two more bicycle trips this year, probably for up to two weeks, that seems to be my bewitching point. Maybe this will be with friends, maybe not. I haven’t felt any fear about being alone, but find being alone for too long is too isolating for me. And I do plan on shorter tours until I’m too old to bike them. I don’t want to lose the joy of touring.
I so appreciate the support I have received for doing this trip. I’m proud of the 900 miles I did and the challenges I managed. I hope no one feels disappointed or mislead in anyway.
Sunday, June 9, 2019
Wednesday, June 5, 2019
June 5 Fort Erie to Buffalo NY
So as I left Fort Erie the sun was shining and I had even used sunscreen, something I haven’t needed except on my face for most of this trip. I had problems accessing the entry to the Peace Bridge, google and Adventure Cycling maps brought me to a locked gate. So I had to climb on the ramp with the trucks, RVs and cars. It was exciting. Once on the bridge I realized that they had lots of construction going on and so the bike lane and pedestrian walkway were closed. Someone suggested that I walk my bike but I ride faster than I walk so I decided that the best way across was the quickest way. Someone else had suggested that I take a picture while I was up there. Who are these people who would stop on that bridge and take a picture. Someone with more courage than me for sure. I didn’t even look out to see what you could see. My plan was to live through that crossing. But for the most part, people were kind and gave me space. I had one encounter with an eighteen wheeler that made me very anxious. I decided he had a vendetta against cyclist because he seemed to be nudging me over as far as he could. While I was waiting in line to go through border entry, another motorist said that he couldn’t stop watching even though he thought he was about to watch me be crushed by that truck. It was a real freak out. I’ve never had someone come so close so deliberately before.
I did have a fun interaction with the border guard. He kept asking me about having something with me to protect myself. He asked about a gun, a knife and finally about pepper spray. I answered “well I did have pepper spray for dogs, but I’ve lost it somewhere along the way.” He helped me search but I couldn’t find it. I told him that it had either been stolen or I had bounced it out on a freeze seam that was hugely expanded. He realized this was a good possibility in the north. He continued to be concerned that I had no protection. I told him that I have never had problems with people, except maybe that truck driver, but that I had been bitten by dogs in Tennessee. I also told him that the only person who had been hit with that pepper spray was me. I accidentally squirted myself along my lip with it one day. I think I was his entertainment for the day.
I went into Buffalo and had a bit of problem navigating but eventually got on course. But then it started raining again and I had a meltdown. Now don’t worry, most people wouldn’t recognize that I had a meltdown so no scenes were created. But I did realize that if you are hungry, angry, lonely, tired it’s time to halt, for a while anyway. So I rented a car and drove to Cleveland where I’m visiting with Sawyer and Molly and Tyler, taking a rest and deciding if I’m built more for multiple short trips instead of one big one. I realized that I’m struggling with the weather first and foremost and it’s really getting me down. But also the repetitive problems with packing and unpacking finding food and a place to stay.
Anyway, I’m in for a few days to reassess and I’ll let you know what happens next.
I did have a fun interaction with the border guard. He kept asking me about having something with me to protect myself. He asked about a gun, a knife and finally about pepper spray. I answered “well I did have pepper spray for dogs, but I’ve lost it somewhere along the way.” He helped me search but I couldn’t find it. I told him that it had either been stolen or I had bounced it out on a freeze seam that was hugely expanded. He realized this was a good possibility in the north. He continued to be concerned that I had no protection. I told him that I have never had problems with people, except maybe that truck driver, but that I had been bitten by dogs in Tennessee. I also told him that the only person who had been hit with that pepper spray was me. I accidentally squirted myself along my lip with it one day. I think I was his entertainment for the day.
I went into Buffalo and had a bit of problem navigating but eventually got on course. But then it started raining again and I had a meltdown. Now don’t worry, most people wouldn’t recognize that I had a meltdown so no scenes were created. But I did realize that if you are hungry, angry, lonely, tired it’s time to halt, for a while anyway. So I rented a car and drove to Cleveland where I’m visiting with Sawyer and Molly and Tyler, taking a rest and deciding if I’m built more for multiple short trips instead of one big one. I realized that I’m struggling with the weather first and foremost and it’s really getting me down. But also the repetitive problems with packing and unpacking finding food and a place to stay.
Anyway, I’m in for a few days to reassess and I’ll let you know what happens next.
Tuesday, June 4, 2019
June 4 Locksport, NY to Fort Erie, Ontario, Canada
I left Locksport in sunshine but soon the sky clouded over and it became quite chilly. I had a good ride on Upper Mountain Road to reach the Lewiston-Queenston Bridge into Canada. Because I had heard stories about cyclist sitting in lines to get through customs I stopped at a small convenience store before getting on the bridge. I had the best sandwich I have had on this trip. Great chicken salad on home made bread served by a man who called me honey in every sentence he used.
No rain today. Just cloudy skies and the beautiful Niagara Falls. Just enjoy the pictures.
No rain today. Just cloudy skies and the beautiful Niagara Falls. Just enjoy the pictures.
June 3 Pittsford NY to Locksport NYe
First of all I want to do a disclaimer about the Red Roof Inn. I didn’t mean to imply that all Red Roof Inns aren’t clean. Actually I don’t know, I was only referring to the one in Fulton, NY so please don’t evaluate the whole chain according to my feedback.
Today I got an early start and was running along the Erie Canalway when I shifted gears slightly and broke my chain. I have pieces to make a repair but decided that since I had passed a bike shop about a mile back I would walk back and let the professionals do it. Unfortunately Towpath Bicycles didn’t open until 11am so I waited a while. When they arrived they quickly got me a new chain in place and I was on my way. The chain was nasty from so much road dirt from mud and filth I had been through over the last few weeks. Rob from Brooklyn had put on his blog that he found a power washer to clean his chain and bike after the weather and mud. I had been oiling mine and trying to clean it but there’s only so much you can do. Several of the roads along Lake Ontario had been flooded and had a lot of mud and then the canalway in the rain was dirty too.
When my chain was repaired I started again and was doing okay until the wind increased . I was trying to make Locksport because Amy’s friend, Bob had a friend who lived there and was willing to give me a place to stay. Around Spencerport I realized I couldn’t make Locksport in this wind and I wanted out of the cold so I called Joan to tell her I wouldn’t be there. But fortunately, Joan’s son, who happens to live in Brockport, my next stop, was going to visit Joan to help with putting up an awning. I met him in Brockport and rode in the car for the last 30 miles. First time I have been in a car since May 15. Jeffrey said one of his sons is a cyclist so he brought along one beer for me to drink on the way to Locksport. What service.
I spent the evening with Joan and her husband Roger. They took me out for a beef on weck sandwich. Western New York is known for this sandwich which is thin slices of beef on a kummelweck roll that has kosher salt and caraway seeds on top. It’s very good. Joan took me to see the locks on the canal that gave Locksport it’s name since I missed the bike ride by them. She was a gracious hostess and I got a good nights rest plus some laundry done.
I met a couple on the canalway who were riding the trail in segments. They were very unhappy with the wind and said this trip has been a bust for them. They had planned to do the Katy Trail in Missouri but that was cancelled because of tornadoes. The weather was sending them home early in frustration.
Today I got an early start and was running along the Erie Canalway when I shifted gears slightly and broke my chain. I have pieces to make a repair but decided that since I had passed a bike shop about a mile back I would walk back and let the professionals do it. Unfortunately Towpath Bicycles didn’t open until 11am so I waited a while. When they arrived they quickly got me a new chain in place and I was on my way. The chain was nasty from so much road dirt from mud and filth I had been through over the last few weeks. Rob from Brooklyn had put on his blog that he found a power washer to clean his chain and bike after the weather and mud. I had been oiling mine and trying to clean it but there’s only so much you can do. Several of the roads along Lake Ontario had been flooded and had a lot of mud and then the canalway in the rain was dirty too.
When my chain was repaired I started again and was doing okay until the wind increased . I was trying to make Locksport because Amy’s friend, Bob had a friend who lived there and was willing to give me a place to stay. Around Spencerport I realized I couldn’t make Locksport in this wind and I wanted out of the cold so I called Joan to tell her I wouldn’t be there. But fortunately, Joan’s son, who happens to live in Brockport, my next stop, was going to visit Joan to help with putting up an awning. I met him in Brockport and rode in the car for the last 30 miles. First time I have been in a car since May 15. Jeffrey said one of his sons is a cyclist so he brought along one beer for me to drink on the way to Locksport. What service.
I spent the evening with Joan and her husband Roger. They took me out for a beef on weck sandwich. Western New York is known for this sandwich which is thin slices of beef on a kummelweck roll that has kosher salt and caraway seeds on top. It’s very good. Joan took me to see the locks on the canal that gave Locksport it’s name since I missed the bike ride by them. She was a gracious hostess and I got a good nights rest plus some laundry done.
I met a couple on the canalway who were riding the trail in segments. They were very unhappy with the wind and said this trip has been a bust for them. They had planned to do the Katy Trail in Missouri but that was cancelled because of tornadoes. The weather was sending them home early in frustration.
Sunday, June 2, 2019
June 2. Sodus Point to Pittsford, NY
I usually wake around 5:30am as the sun is coming up but today there wasn’t much sun early in the day. When I discovered it was raining hard I turned over to sleep some more. About an hour later I began to pack up within the tent planning to get on the road as soon as the rain slowed a bit. Finally around 7:30 there was a break and I could pack up my tent. Since it was so rainy I only ate an energy bar for breakfast but eventually passed a farm market with fresh baked goods. I decided to stop there for breakfast number two. This lady had baked some beautiful cinnamon rolls which were hard to pass up but she also had some apple turnovers made with NY state apples and that was my choice. Better than the pastry though was the coffee. Yay Rah she had coffee. Sadly I am quite addicted. She and her husband talked about the cold and how it is impacting their crops. They were amazed that on June 2 they are still wearing their thermal shirts with flannel shirts over them.
I rode on for another ten miles or so but it was raining so hard that when I saw a deli I decided to go in for another cup of coffee and some juice. I waited for about 30 minutes there until the rain was not so extreme. People here had promised that the rain was stopping around 10am and I was optimistically believing them.
Leaving that deli should have been none eventful but I needed to make a turn right there onto Lake Road. Of course since I’m on the shores of Lake Ontario there are as many Lake roads as there are Peachtree streets in Atlanta. Well the sign had Lake Road going both ways but my instructions said bear right so I did exactly that. Anyway, when I begin to see signs for the town Ontario, I couldn’t recall that I should be going through that town. Stop refer to map is the next step. Well anyway, if you ever want to go to Ontario without crossing the border than there is a small village in NY that is quite affluent and right along Lake Ontario. But it wasn’t on my route so I had to recalculate and backtrack several miles. I was able to get back on track without going back to the original mistake with a little help from google and followed some really cool roads to do it.
Ultimately the day ended with picking up the Erie Canal bicycle path and following it until I reached Pittsford. I decided against camping tonight because I have so much wet stuff. Time to have a night to dry out and recharge some lights and tracking devices. It was a cold and windy rain and I have trouble recovering from the chill. The ride today would have been beautiful if it had been a little less
wet.
I rode on for another ten miles or so but it was raining so hard that when I saw a deli I decided to go in for another cup of coffee and some juice. I waited for about 30 minutes there until the rain was not so extreme. People here had promised that the rain was stopping around 10am and I was optimistically believing them.
Leaving that deli should have been none eventful but I needed to make a turn right there onto Lake Road. Of course since I’m on the shores of Lake Ontario there are as many Lake roads as there are Peachtree streets in Atlanta. Well the sign had Lake Road going both ways but my instructions said bear right so I did exactly that. Anyway, when I begin to see signs for the town Ontario, I couldn’t recall that I should be going through that town. Stop refer to map is the next step. Well anyway, if you ever want to go to Ontario without crossing the border than there is a small village in NY that is quite affluent and right along Lake Ontario. But it wasn’t on my route so I had to recalculate and backtrack several miles. I was able to get back on track without going back to the original mistake with a little help from google and followed some really cool roads to do it.
Ultimately the day ended with picking up the Erie Canal bicycle path and following it until I reached Pittsford. I decided against camping tonight because I have so much wet stuff. Time to have a night to dry out and recharge some lights and tracking devices. It was a cold and windy rain and I have trouble recovering from the chill. The ride today would have been beautiful if it had been a little less
June 1 Fulton NY to Sodus Point NY
i spent the night in a Red Roof Inn just a half mile off route last night. After checking prices the Red Roof Inn was not much more than camping at the Yogi Bear Campground so I opted for indoors out of the rain. In the middle of the night I realized I was sleeping in a weird position because I was trying to keep whatever people dirt off of me. Let’s just say the Red Roof Inn in Fulton wasn’t the cleanest place I’ve ever been. With a little self reasoning I reminded myself that sleeping in weird crunched position trying to be as small as possible doesn’t help . I mean, I sleep on the ground in a tent. But that people dirt...
This is all to say the day didn’t start well with a shortage of sleep and then it started raining while I was having breakfast. I waited that shower out and luckily only had one more big shower around 9 before the sunshine crept out in the afternoon.
But I couldn’t lose the grump so I was fairly miserable all day long. I had a return to those steep hill with no switchbacks and much perceived misery. Even though I went through some pretty countryside I just couldn’t pull it together. I met a cyclist out for an afternoon ride. He offered to let me stop at his house and get water but I realized I was not the ambassador of cycling today so I should quietly keep my grump to myself. I mean how much do these people want to hear me complaining about rain?
I reached Sodus Point which is beautiful by the way, right on Lake Ontario, found a nice, cheap campground right on the lake and called it a day. I heard from both daughters, received a really cute photo of Sawyer dressed up for a wedding, a reluctant model at best and had text messages from Dan, Sylvia, Terri and Bob plus both sisters. I have lots of support and it came through on this weird day. Jessica and I talked for a while and commiserated about some of the places we slept when I visited her in Bulgaria while she was in the Peace Corps. Things are good again. Now back in my tent cause it’s starting to rain again.
This is all to say the day didn’t start well with a shortage of sleep and then it started raining while I was having breakfast. I waited that shower out and luckily only had one more big shower around 9 before the sunshine crept out in the afternoon.
But I couldn’t lose the grump so I was fairly miserable all day long. I had a return to those steep hill with no switchbacks and much perceived misery. Even though I went through some pretty countryside I just couldn’t pull it together. I met a cyclist out for an afternoon ride. He offered to let me stop at his house and get water but I realized I was not the ambassador of cycling today so I should quietly keep my grump to myself. I mean how much do these people want to hear me complaining about rain?
I reached Sodus Point which is beautiful by the way, right on Lake Ontario, found a nice, cheap campground right on the lake and called it a day. I heard from both daughters, received a really cute photo of Sawyer dressed up for a wedding, a reluctant model at best and had text messages from Dan, Sylvia, Terri and Bob plus both sisters. I have lots of support and it came through on this weird day. Jessica and I talked for a while and commiserated about some of the places we slept when I visited her in Bulgaria while she was in the Peace Corps. Things are good again. Now back in my tent cause it’s starting to rain again.
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